SilverStar

Work well. Easy to install. Clear and bright.

These bulbs are an OEM replacement in a 2006 Ford Five Hundred- I noticed one low beam headlight out on my car and found these- happy I did - shipped quickly. See video and pics for more information- This is a fairly simple maintenance or upgrade that you can complete on your own - These bulbs are sold at a fair price and makes you feel good that you can save a trip to the mechanic for more technical issues. I am happy with the clarity and brightness of the bulbs. I wore gloves to avoid getting hand oils on the lenses which may shorten their lifespan. If you change one, change BOTH; the other bulb isn’t far behind . I was careful not to overly twist any wires and took my time with the replacement,,,they are removed and put back with a 1/4 twist - just take your time and don’t force anything. I hope this review was helpful- Good luck with your repair.

Put these on my 1999 RX300. Huge improvement in light output. I've always been a fan of these bulbs in vehicles that take halogen bulbs. High quality and great output.

Wanted a brighter light as I drive rural roads where the deer roam. It works nicely. I only replaced the side with the burned out bulb but I noticed the difference. I got to remove my battery to get to the other socket which I plan to do by next week (along with brighter low beams). It is nice to see the road.

Great value. Worked well in my 2003 Chevy S10 Pickup

Great price. Fit is excellent

Bulbs work great. Amazing price compared to all the local parts stores.

DOES NOT PARTICULARLY FIT 2008 PRIUS HEADLIGHT - EVEN THOUGH AMAZON CAR MATCH SAYS SO!!! This bulb IS ONLY CORRECT for the 2008 PRIUS FOG LIGHTS!!! - NOT HEADLIGHTs! The CORRECT OEM HEADLIGHT bulb for at least our 2008 Pirus is actually the: The German made OSRAM D4R HID Xenon Headlight Bulbs 66450 P32d-6 42V 35W = Toyota Original Manufacturer's headlight bulb for the Prius 2008 and many other years. See image to general shape - esp the base - which has NO 90 degree bend and “in-socket” connector. And you will find WAY better deals on these OSRAM bulbs with their 4 year warrantee - than you can for the Sylvania D4R bulbs - and all their want to Be’s like 1/2 / 1/3 the cost of the Sylvania bulb!!! AND OSRAM - has super blue white in the same model. BEWARE - there are a lot of FAKE OSRAM bulb Sellers - OBSRAM has created a Special Bulb Code - what shows on the outer package which you can check on OBSRAM’s website to authenticate their bulbs. BTW - ONCE YOU DO ORDER THE ACTUAL BULB YOU NEED (ass above) Here are some tips on getting the job done… HINT #1 - unlike most videos out there about this procedure - you do NOT need to detach the wire leading through the bulb protective (waterproofing) housing - before proceeding… 1) On the Passenger side you might want to 1st unplug both windshield washer wire plugs and move them entirely out of your way - as well as the plastic air intake housing to access. 2) on the Driver’s side - be sure to remove the fuse box cover to give you just that extra little bit more access 3) YOU DO NOT NEED TO DETACH THE WIRING LEADING THROUGH THE WATERPROOF HOUSING! That wire has a clip that is hard to press to release - and is unnecessary and works better if you allow it to remain in place. If your housing is rubber instead of firm plastic type you still do not need to detach the wire. 4) If you do have the same type of firm plastic unit as our 2008 - before removing this Waterproof Housing - NOTE the absolute position of the protective housing top “Leveraging Fin” (my name for the fins that stick out of this housing to allow you to have traction and leverage to unscrew and re-screw this house in into place). Before you turn it ~25* counter clockwise. I make the Fin that is Most Upward + Mark its installed position. 4b) Once noted and Marked - you’re going to turn the housing ~ 25 degrees Counter-clockwise - DO THIS SLOWLY - BECAUSE YOU ARE GOING TO REALLY WANT TO KNOW PRECISELY WHERE THE FINS INDICATE THE RELEASE POINT IS !!! Mark that Point! FOR EASY RE-ASSEMBLY - as you really will need to find this EXACT position when Re-placing it. 4d) Now you have a wire leading to your bulb though the housing you just removed - you may remove the bulb’s connecting wire now. 4e) You will find that there are 2 spring clip wires holing the bulb into its seated position - you’ll need to release pressure from both to free the bulb for removal. *** NOTE: If you expect to keep the bulbs you are removing for any reason - AND to avoid running the new bulbs you are installing - you either NEVER TOWUCH THEIR GLASS - Or always wear clean surgical like gloves to be sure you don’t contaminate the bulb glass with grease / dirt of any kind. Depending on the cleanliness of your engine compartment you may on ly want to dawn close after removing the protective housing and unfastening the spring wire clips. 4d) Once the holding spring wires are released - (and your gloved) you are free to slowly - counter clockwise rotate the bulb ~ 30* to release from its seated position - MOST IMPORTANT - Realize (MEMORIZE) the way you remove it at this very moment - because this position indicates UP^ for the bulb and so withdraw the bulb slowly and directly backward to note what that looks linke in the way your fingers are holding the bulb. NOTE: - also note in the UP^ position on bulb’s base the orientation that you will need to have the wire click onto to attach to the bulb once you’ve installed the new one. 5) Now that you’ve memorized the UP position of the bulb - You are ready to reverse the above procedures to install your new bulb. 5b) ALWAYS ONLY HANDLE THE BULB BY IT’s PLUG END 5c) Be sure that you have the UP^ Orientation correct as you are about to insert the bulb - BE SURE NOT TO TOUCH / PUT PRESSURE ON / BREAK the EXPOSED CERAMIC INSULATED WIRE leading from the base to the TOP of the Bulb. 5d) It can be most helpful to watch your bulb insertion from outside - through the headlight glass. 5e) If the God’s are with you - your UP^ position was perfect - and you will slide into the 2 point seating of the bulb - after which you will gently turn Clockwise to seat the bulb into its bracket. 5f) replace the 2 holding spring wires (note on some models this might be a single “U” 6) Having Noted UP^ position of the bulb’s base connector - look at the bulb’s wire and orient it accordingly and snuggling it up to the bulb’s base gently find it opposite mate and snap it into position. TEST THE LIGHTS HI / LO BEFORE PROCEEDING! 🙏. If it goes on bright and goes out - you may have blown that bulb - possibly touching the surface with dirt or finger grease - where it boils on the surface due to the heat - and poof If one or the other does not turn on - is may simply be that you didn’t click the wire connector well enough… check connections and re-TEST. REASSEMBLY: Interestingly enough although those of you who might have a flexible rubber housing should have little problem placing and getting this cover back on - the rest of you with the firm plastic with the turning leverage fins like ours - may want to use this trick - there is a large “O”ring that makes the final seal - and which will work with you to get this done quickly if you simple lubricate it with a touch of food grade spray silicone - making sure that it slips and slides easily in its housing slot. Because its one thing to actually find the 4 points of the waterproof housing’s attachment and line them up with their counterpart slots in the headlight housing - but pressing all the way around the WP housing while pushing that seal in place and then not having it slide easily - will drive you WILD! - AND often it leaves you having caught only 2 or 3 of the housing’s keys - which feels like your done - until you really check it out - that its really seated into the headlight and the gasket re-formed a watertight seal. Try lifting the far edge of the housing to test it… 7) Re-attach the 2 windshield washer wires to their positions 7b) reinstall the air duct vent and reattached the front cover plastic mounts you needed to remove to remover the air duct vent. Funny enough the hardest part of this - especially on the drivers side I found was because of the “O”ring gasket not being lubricated and easily moving in its housing slot. Best of Luck!